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Notes on the Geography of Uzbekistan: Bukhara: Bazaars

Bukhara has always had a market, but shopping habits have changed.

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Uzbekistan: Bukhara: Bazaars picture 1

Originally, the most important markets were the covered bazaars at street intersections.  This one is the Jeweller's Bazaar, or Tak-i-Zargaran (literally, "Vault of the Jewellers").  It lies at the historic center of the city, the origin of the ancient street grid.  The view here is north.

Uzbekistan: Bukhara: Bazaars picture 2

We've circled 90 degrees counterclockwise and are now looking west, down the original main street.  On the far side is the Poi Kalon.

Uzbekistan: Bukhara: Bazaars picture 3

Another of the toks, this one the Tok-i Sarrafon, or money-changer's bazaar. These bazaars were owned by the government, and merchants using stalls inside were taxed.

Uzbekistan: Bukhara: Bazaars picture 4

The toks today are devoted to tourist goods.

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The real Bukhara market is off to the west, where it hugs the ruins of the ancient and disintegrating city wall.

Uzbekistan: Bukhara: Bazaars picture 6

Garlic, potatoes, and whisk brooms.

Uzbekistan: Bukhara: Bazaars picture 7

A large part of the market is devoted to used clothing.

Uzbekistan: Bukhara: Bazaars picture 8

Hardware.

Uzbekistan: Bukhara: Bazaars picture 9

You can hardly call these vendors merchants: maybe we'll call the place a real farmer's market.  In the background you can make out an ersatz McDonalds.

Uzbekistan: Bukhara: Bazaars picture 10

As in the past, the market is regulated by the government, which taxes sellers.

Uzbekistan: Bukhara: Bazaars picture 11

Careful!

Uzbekistan: Bukhara: Bazaars picture 12

On the way home, cradle in arm.


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